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So what can you do with a saw guide?

The problem Geoff faced was that he suffers from arthritis in his left hand, meaning that maintaining a constant grip with his left hand while sawing with the right hand was a painful experience. His solution, and a very clever one too, was to create a jig which in effect takes over the work of his left hand.

I'll let Geoff talk you through it:

"You may remember my problem of an arthritic left hand and associated difficulty of controlling the free angle saw guide, particularly when sawing wide boards. I offer the following solution.

Sawing jig for free angle saw guide.

Components.

  1. One length Dakota T Track. (Available from Rutlands)
  2. One pack T slot sliders, washers, bolts and knobs. (Available from Rutlands)
  3. One length of board L x 6 inches x 3/4inch. BASE
  4. One length L x 1/1/2 inches x  ¾  inch. BACK FENCE
  5. Two lengths  L x 3/8 inch x ¾ inch. RUNNERS
  6. Assemble as in photographs below, making sure the T Track is parallel with the back fence.

Use.

  1. Screw back fence to Free angle guide.
  2. Remove knob from Free angle guide.
  3. Screw T bolt into slider and loosely attach to Free angle guide through hole in base plate.
  4. Insert slider with Free angle guide attached into T Track.
  5. By careful adjustment you can achieve a smooth, continuous sliding action along the length of the T track to coincide with sawing. OR you can “lock” the guide at any desired position along the track by tightening the knob connected to the T bolt. This actually allows one handed operation or, for the able bodied, two handed sawing.
  6. Clamp the jig to the work.

Applications.

  1. Sawing wide boards.
  2. Rip sawing long boards.
  3. Rip sawing green timber.
  4. Making angled cuts on wide board.

Overall the use of this jig increases the accuracy and ease of use of the saw guide. It might be useful to consider the use of more specialist saws for certain applications. A long ripsaw would increase the amount of work done per stroke. A timber ripsaw for sawing green timber. With regards to this latter operation, I am not a complete masochist. If you use the hand method for constructing two parallel faces it might just be possible to get a four inch board by topping and tailing the log through a ten inch circular saw.


The photographs below show another of Geoff's jigs: a prototype setup for ripping green timber which is fairly illustrated in the photographs. Geoff reports that the child's chair survived!

 

Nice one, Geoff! I have to say there is a good chance the chair would have been in 2 parts had I attempted that!